Painted Percy Miniature Tips and Tricks
The painted Percy miniature video is up! In this video, I walk you through the prep and painting tips for this sculpt. This mini was a part of the Vox Machina set of the Critical Role Steamforged Miniatures Kickstarter. Percy is one of my favorite characters from either party. I adore his personality, but he also looks so cool! I love the iconic blue coat and white hair, I was so excited to paint him.
Prepping the Percy Mini
He was a delight to paint. The prep wasn’t too bad either but there a lot of flash lines to clean up. One of them was over the top of his head, which was tricky. First, because it was in a spot that was very noticeable. The first thing you look at on a mini is usually the head and face, its just human nature. Second, its over a rounded shape and is also textured. When cleaning this one up, you may need to cut away some small divots to recreate the texture.
The most obvious flash lines on his coat and boot were easy and quick to remove since they were on smoother surfaces. I like to follow up with a small metal file on the smooth surfaces. For this, I just use a file set made for jewelry makers and they work great. You can get a set
for around $10 and they are a great investment if you are getting into the miniature painting hobby.
You’ll also want a sharp Xacto for the ones on his weapons on his back, it’s a tight spot. Same goes for the arm that is holding the gun on his shoulders. Both of these areas are really tricky to clean up but there is another option. If you don’t have a sharp blade or don’t trust you cutting skills, you can always prime these areas in black, and then carefully paint around them. The black will make them hard to notice. This method would work better for the area around the belt, but not so much on the top of the arm and glove.
There was only one gap in this model but it was a significant one. It runs all the way across his back, over his belt. You could paint this black as well but I this this one is worth filling in. I personally use Milliput, though I know many people use Green Stuff. Both of these products are moldable, two part epoxy putty that cures into a hard surface that can be sanded and painted.
I’ve always used Milliput, I’m a big fan of it. A box of it is only about $5 and seems to last forever. We bought ours a long time ago and are maybe a third through, and we’ve patched a LOT of miniatures (including several dragons and monsters).
All I do to fill in the gap is take a small amount of the mixed putty and push it into the gap. I then use either a wet finger or a wet Q-Tip to smooth over the surface until its well blended. If you take your time and work this in right before it cures, you won’t need to sand at all. But if you are rushed, you of course can sand it very easily once its dry.
Now the fun part! I always do skin first, then hair, then all the whites. This way, I can make a mess if I want because the edges will get cleaned up anyway. Normally, I’d do eyes very first, but since he had goggles that would need metallic paint, I did that last. Always do all metallic paint last because the shimmer can rub off and transfer to other parts of the mini. The order isn’t really that important except for the metallics being last, this is just the order I paint in.
Next, I moved on to the browns. Percy has a lot of leathers going on here so I tried to vary the shades and tons of his accessories so they’d be broken up, visually. I have a great red toned brown that I use on leather a lot and it contrasts well with the more tan browns that I use for a more weathered look. They two also work great together when using the tan for a dry brush highlight. You can also vary your browns with washes. For an example, tan with the reddish brown wash looks much different than the same color with a black wash.
Next, the iconic blue coat! It’s such a pretty color, I wanted to get a little fancy with it. I did the base coat with a standard royal blue color (last one the palette below), right out of the bottle. Then, I added an almost denim color (next to last on the palette) to that royal blue and built up the midtones in thin layers.
But here’s the real trick: turquoise (second color on the palette). I mixed bright turquoise in with the mid-tone paint to create the highlight color. I then built up thin layers, giving the very highest spots a kiss of that bright blue. That greenish color gives a good contrast for the royal blue and makes the color more dynamic.
I didn’t use the first color on the palette but I wanted to include it in case you wanted to replace the turquoise with a standard blue. Maybe you don’t have access to the turquoise or maybe you don’t feel like it looks right, but you can just swap baby blue with the turquoise and use the same method. The key is to thin the paint and work in layers to build the highlights.
Teeny Tiny Details
First of all, I’m going to disagree with the popular advice of “don’t use tiny brushes”. I love my tiny brushes. They say this because paint dries fast on some tiny brushes and its hard to paint before that happens. However, I found some long tiny brushes and the bristles hold water, which prevents drying. Here are the ones I use:
Percy has a ton of gold detail, which was so fun to paint. For the bigger pieces, like his gun, I used a bronze paint then highlighted with bright gold. I typically do a base coat of metallic, a black ink wash, and then careful highlights.
I hope you found this painted Percy miniature painting guide helpful, please let me know if you get stuck and I will try to help! Don’t forget to check out the other videos, including Pumat and Keyleth.